My first work for stay.

Day 108 - 8/6/10
Didn't have any more moose visits during the night. Maybe I was
paranoid about it or something though because I didn't sleep too well.
I was also on a slope, so I could never get fully comfortable. I heard
Bodacious moving around early, and just as he was about to leave I
yelled out asking what time it was. He said, "6:30. See you on down
the trail Coon Cat", then left. I packed up, had breakfast, and left
within an hour.

It was less than 2 miles to Zealand Falls Hut, so I made it early
enough to score some breakfast leftovers. They had oatmeal and
cornbread, so I ate some of each. Gave them three dollars for it and
was on my way. The next 5 miles was the flattest and easiest stretch
in the Whites, very different from the rest of it. I think Bodacious
said something about how part of that section used to be an old
railroad bed, so that would explain some of it. I hiked through there,
stopped into Ethan Pond Shelter for a quick snack break, then hiked
down to Crawford Notch by lunchtime.

The hike up from Crawford going North was much more steep than going
South. I had to hike up almost 3000 feet in 3.2 miles to Mt. Webster.
The section through there is called the Webster Cliff Trail, and after
going through I now know why they named it that. Once you get up a few
thousand feet the trail begins to go along cliff edges, then it'll
dodge back into the trees, then back to some cliffs a little higher
up. Along those cliffs were some of the fiercest winds I've
experienced, so fast and cold. On a bad day you would easily be
knocked over and maybe even off. I really enjoyed that part for that
very reason though, and it felt great to be able to dry out my sweat-
drenched shirt and shorts.

The climb up to Webster took a few hours, and when I made it up and
over the weather started to turn from blue sunny skies to dark and
misty. It was amazing to watch it transition that quickly, something
you'd only see in the Whites (and maybe a few other rugged places).
Luckily it didn't rain, and I just had to hike along the rocks in high
winds. After Webster was Mt. Jackson, going up only another hundred
feet. Then it was a few ups and downs to Mizpah Spring Hut where I
planned on fitting in a work-for-stay if I could. One strange thing I
saw along the way was someone had written my name (Coon Cat) in a
muddy bog next to this boardwalk you go across. I thought it might've
been Bodacious, but when I made it to Mizpah and went to go see him at
the campsite nearby I knew he'd be at, he told me it wasn't him. Not
sure who else it could be, or who else knew I was going through that
part today. I'll be putting in some detective work these next few days
and perhaps I'll find the person responsible.

So at Mizpah I was able to do a work-for-stay, even though I was a
little early to ask for it. I ended up showing up a few minutes before
4, and they don't really want hikers asking until closer to
dinnertime, but the girl I spoke to, Sarah, was real nice and said
it'd be okay. Because you're not paying to stay they don't have you
eating with the other hikers, and you can't get any leftovers until a
few hours later when everyone is done. The people working here do it
this way so that the paying customers know and can see why they pay.

It's only 5:30 now, about a half hour before dinnertime for everyone.
I'm posting early tonight so that means I'll fill in how the rest of
my night went as well as the work I ended up doing in tomorrow's post.
In less than 24 hours I'll have finally hiked that mountain I've been
able to see from my house for 23 years now. Can't wait.

Total miles: 1840.5

A what got loose?

Day 107 - 8/5/10
I woke up and started packing up around 7. As I was preparing and
eating breakfast I heard a voice say, "Hey, you can't camp here," and
I turn to see Bodacious coming up the trail. He was joking around of
course, and he stopped in to say good morning. He had camped at
Liberty Springs last night, which is where I almost stayed. He told me
before he left that the section coming up, known as the Franconia
Ridge, was one of the best parts of the AT because it's all above
treeline. It was a foggy morning, so I was hoping for it to clear by
the time I was up there.

I left somewhere between 8:15-8:30, and started the climb up to Little
Haystack Mountain. It was steep, rocky, wet, and muddy, but when I
made it above treeline I started to get really excited. I could see
the sky starting to clear, which had my adrenaline pumping. Finally a
view up in the Whites! The farther along I climbed the better the
weather got, and by the time I had made it to Mt. Lincoln the sky was
mostly clear and I could see well on either side. The views were
spectacular, and I wasn't even at the top. I could see Mt. Lafayette
further up (the top at 5249 ft.) and I charged my way to it.

When I made it I found myself in the company of others, hikers who had
come up a different trail, one that goes to/from Greenleaf Hut. It
would have been nice to experience it up there alone, but the Whites
are one of the most heavily used sections of the AT. Coming up the
whole ridgeline though was amazing, probably the closest thing I've
had to a spiritual experience. Now I can see why Mohammed (sp?), the
founder of Islam, had a spiritual vision up on a mountain. I bet lots
of other people have too, it's hard not to with what you're seeing. I
took lots of pictures of my trek up to the top, and you can definitely
see the transition of weather and how the skies just opened up.

As I hiked down from the ridge back under treeline the weather turned
again, and by the time I was under the tree canopy a heavy fog had
again set in, so I hit that ridge at the perfect time. It stayed foggy
the rest of the day until evening too, so it really worked out well
for me. I went downhill for a bit, then a steep climb up and over Mt.
Garfield where I took a break near the top. Bodacious was there so I
hung out with him. After a 15-minute stop I left and went straight
back down Garfield. Then it was small ups and downs to Galehead Hut
where I stopped in for some bread and some dessert thing called a
chocolate mess or something. Basically a brownie. It was good food,
but the bread just made me miss the ones my Mom makes. Will you make
me the dill bread when I'm done, Mom? I love that one.

I left Galehead around 2:30ish and headed straight up South Twin
Mountain. Hardest mile of the day. So steep and rocky. By the time I
reached the top I was dead, so even though the wind was blowing and it
was cold above treeline I had to stop and lay down on the rocks. I was
drenched with sweat and my wet shirt was frigid, but I couldn't move.
About ten minutes later I mustered up the energy to leave, and hiked
an easy 2 miles to Mt. Guyot. I was getting really concerned for a
while because the skies darkened up, and I thought it would start
pouring any minute. Luckily it didn't, and when I came to the trail
intersection of Mt. Guyot I saw Bodacious lounging there. I stopped,
by then it was 4 o'clock, and we talked about where we were thinking
of stopping. He was planning on Guyot Shelter, whereas I was planning
on a few more miles to a stealth spot near Zealand Pond. As we talked
the sky cleared up remarkably fast and pretty soon we had blue skies
and you could see Mt. Lafayette across the way.

Since it cleared up he decided to go to the pond too, so we left
together. Things were going well until all of a sudden I started
feeling weak, dizzy, shaky, and like I was going to pass out. I guess
the tough day finally caught up with me. I told Bodacious I had to
stop and eat something, and that I'd catch up later. I ate some trail
mix, a bunch of m&m's, and a Nature Valley bar smothered in Nutella. I
thought that was plenty, so I threw on my pack and walked on. Not ten
minutes later I was feeling just as tired, staggering down the trail
like I was going to fall down any second. I stopped again and decided
to eat my dinner early. I was planning on mashed potatoes, but I was
too tired to boil water plus I wasn't in a good spot, so I just dumped
cold water into the instant pack, stirred it up, and ate it. I was to
tired to care. Then I had two cookies on top of that. After all that I
finally felt better and was able to make it to the pond side trail
without another stop. When I got there Bodacious was waiting for me,
then showed me the sweet spot he had scoped out. It's definitely a
pretty well known stealth spot, but far enough into the woods where
you wouldn't be able to see it from the trail.

We set up our tents, then he made his dinner while we talked and
stuff. He's a real cool guy, about 40-50's I'd say. Lives in Tennessee
very close to the trail, near some of the balds. A good guy to know
out here I think, seems to very educated in the outdoors. We went into
our tents about 7:30, we were both exhausted, and I started writing
this all out. As I was writing about the part where I was weak and
exhausted I heard a noise in the woods. Very loud, and coming from a
direction that we hadn't come from. I though maybe, just maybe it was
another hiker pulling in from the South, using a different path. Nope.
It was a giant moose, female, that came lumbering past our tents less
than 10 feet away! I was shocked, frightened, amazed, and so much
more. I started shaking, unsure if what I was seeing was real. Did it
even notice us I though. As it walked right past Bodacious's tent I
whispered to him that there was a moose. He was almost asleep, so by
the time he was up and out of his tent it had walked away to the pond.
Unbelievable. What a way to end the day! And now I can hear it
sloshing through the pond. Does it get any better? I love the Whites!

Total miles: 1824.7

Still no views.

Day 106 - 8/4/10
I slept well in the shelter, which I'll attribute to the lovely sounds
of the brook only a hundred feet away or so. Not only does it lull you
to sleep, but it'll drown out soft to medium snoring as well. I woke
up about 6:30, and most everyone left by 7 except Zach and I. I slowly
packed up, then made breakfast, and in that time it started raining so
I just decided to wait it out. The skies weren't brutally dark,
therefore I knew it was just a passing shower. I talked with Zach
while I had breakfast, and man is he an interestingly weird fellow.
He's an insomniac, former anorexic (now at 240 or so), started college
when he was 14, and was raised in a conservative Christian family that
does not believe in evolution. That's only some of what he told me. He
was good for conversation to say the least. When the rain cleared I
geared up to leave, which by then was around 9. I said goodbye to Zach
and was on my way.

I started with a steep climb up South Kinsman Mt. When I reached the
top it was foggy and gross, just like yesterday with Moosilauke, so no
view. It wasn't to much above treeline though, so probably not one of
the standouts of the Whites. The AT took a short dip down, then back
up to the North Kinsman, which is about 100 ft. shorter than it's
brother. That one didn't even go above treeline, so I didn't miss
anything there. Then it was a steep, slippery drop to the first
shelter, Kinsman Pond, the first shelter through the Whites with a
fee. I only stopped in to use the privy, and while there I took some
pics of the pond because it was such a nice setting. I haven't really
had my camera out lately because of the bad weather, so that was
another reason I snapped a few. As I continued onward the sky started
to clear up, and got better and better as I made my way to Lonesone
Lake Hut.

When I arrived at the Hut the skies had cleared and were nice and
blue, so I only missed a view up top there by a few hours. I was sort
of annoyed by that, but I'm hoping all this fog now means I'll get
clear skies on Washington. Anyway, Lonesome Lake is the first of
several giant buildings along the AT that guests can stay in and enjoy
a mountain experience. It costs at least 80 bucks to stay there, and
has much nicer accommodations then a regular shelter or tentsite, so
thru-hikers only stop in for some food and maybe work for stay if the
caretakers will allow it.

I stopped in for the former, getting some bottomless corn chowder for
$2, and a couple slabs of 2-day old bread for free! The bread was
fine, and dunked very well in the soup, which was also good too, but
not as good as Jen's. I ended up having two bowls, and when I left
there I was quite full. Hopefully down the way I'll be able to do a
work for stay at one of them, not really for the free food but more
for the experience of it all. I think it's one of those things you
should try to fit in if you're doing the AT.

From there it was mostly downhill to Franconia Notch where you cross
under I-93. I stopped at the brook that runs right underneath the road
and cleaned off my shirt because I was getting really sweaty and it
was itching my back. When I was set I started a big climb up to
Liberty Spring Tent Site. It felt so much hotter being down at the
1000 ft. level elevation than it did up in the mountains. Down by I-93
it felt like a scorcher, then by the time I was at the campsite (3800
ft.) it was nice and cool. It amazed me how noticeable it was.

I stopped at the campsite because I was considering staying there, and
when I came to the caretakers tent he came out and started showing me
around. Real nice guy named Garrett. We got to talking and he
suggested I hike a few more miles up to a nice stealth spot he knew
about, that way I wouldn't have to drop the 8 dollars to camp at
Liberty Springs. He doesn't tell that to everyone, but he does try to
help out thru-hikers. He ended up giving me a few more stealth
suggestions too, and since it was only around 5 o'clock I decided to
shoot for the one he was talking about. I thanked him, filled up on
water, and left.

I ended up stopping a little before the place he suggested because I
saw another place where camping looked good. I set up my tent then ate
a random selection of food (tuna with tobasco, cookies, m&m's, Oreo
dipper things, and a dark Hershey bar). I'm just now realizing how
much chocolate I ate after writing it all down like that. I was lazy
and didn't feel like cooking though.

Today was a pretty tough day, only did about 13 miles, although I did
start later than normal. I'm glad I met and talked to Garrett because
he helped me out with a couple different options for tomorrow. I was a
little unsure where I should shoot for before I had met him, so things
worked out well. Anyway I'm very tired so goodnight.

Total miles: 1810

The Whites are wicked rugged.

Day 105 - 8/3/10
I had a good sleep at the hostel. I actually slept outside in this
circus tent sort thing, and it rained so you could hear it hitting
against the tarp roof. I always enjoy that sound. I set my alarm for 6
because I wanted to get over Moosilauke early enough to avoid the
afternoon rain I saw in the forecast, so I was out of there at 7.

From Glencliff up to the summit was a gain of 3700 ft. in just under
6 miles, so it's a good climb. You get above treeline near the top,
and it was a strange experience. You start to notice the pines all
getting smaller, no more than 10-12 feet high, then they get ever and
ever smaller until they disappear completely and all that's left is
grass and rocks in a giant meadow. Because there are no trees to blaze
they instead put them on these homemade pillars of rock, sort of like
the stacks I'd mentioned in an earlier post, but larger. They range
anywhere from 6-10 ft. high and 2-4 feet around. It was so foggy up
there that you could hardly see the next pillar in the distance, but
you could see them. I imagined them to have torches on the top, like
beacons lighting my way. The top of Moosilauke was actually pretty
cool, even though it was too cruddy for a view. There was more stone
structures up there that looked like ancient ruins, some plaques, and
one other guy who was rocking out to some heavy metal music. Wouldn't
have been my music of choice to experience on top of a mountain, but
to each his own.

I hiked down and hit Beaver Brook Shelter right about 11, and decided
to take my first break of the day. There I met two other NOBOs, a
couple named Dormouse & Dirtstew. I only stayed for 15 minutes, then
went on to tackle one of the hardest miles of the AT, at least as a
NOBO. It was a drop of about 1700 feet in 1.3 miles, and along wet
rocks and roots. A lot of it you were using iron bars and wooden
blocks that had been drilled into the rock. It was insane, and
probably slowed me down to about a mile an hour. I did make it down in
one piece though, and stopped for a break at the parking lot near the
bottom. Some day hikers had just finished up their hike, and one came
over and gave me a turkey/salami sub he didn't eat. Bonus! It wasn't
the best sub I've had, a little floppy and wet. Sort of reminded me of
that episode of the Simpsons when Homer won't throw away the 6-foot
sub, and even hides it behind the fridge so Marge won't get rid of it.
Hope I don't get sick like he did.

Anyway after that it was only 7.5 miles to the shelter I wanted to
make (Eliza Brook). Psssh...only. I wish it was that easy. There was
so much rock, mud, roots, trees, up and down that it felt like an
eternity. Plus my boots were pretty wet, which was making my toes
throb, so it was a bit rough mentally. I finally did make it though at
5:30. Bodacious was already there and had his tent up, plus there was
a guy asleep in the shelter who I met later on named Zach. I made
myself dinner and set up inside the shelter in case it rains. A few
others came in afterward, Redwood and Hitch, two southbound
sectioners, both very nice. They thru hiked in '05 together.

Almost 8:30 now. Today was pretty good, a nice beginning, but sort of
a rough end. I did 17 miles in 10+ hours, which means my pace through
the Whites is definitely slower than my usual average, but I'm very
happy and proud that I managed that many miles in this rugged terrain.
We'll see where I end up tomorrow.

Total miles: 1797.6

Hardest Mile of the Day.

Day 104 - 8/2/10
I've become a fan of using this phrase. I'd prefer to use it early on in the day, but sometimes you don't until the last mile or two. Those ones are tough. Fortunately today it was early, but I'll get to that in a minute.

My sleep was alright, but not great. The wind was blowing around on those rocks, making my tent walls flap around. That isn't what made me have a tough sleep though, I think it was just one of those nights. I woke up a little past 7, packed up, and probably left close to 8. I started by climbing uphill, passing the north side of Jacobs Brook, then heading up to Hexacuba shelter. Funny name, right? I didn't stop in because it was .3 off the trail, plus it would've been too early to break, so I pushed onward and upward over Mt. Cube. That was probably the hardest mile of the day right there, although it was a lot of fun. There was beautiful granite stone that I was constantly walking across, so smooth that it was almost counter-top quality. I guess after years of constant footsteps that will happen. When I reached the top there was a nice view, so I stopped, snacked a little, and aired out my t-shirt, which by the way I'm loving. I went with a bigger size than before and it's nice and loose, but not exceedingly so. I was getting a bit tired of how tight the previous one was. While up on Mt. Cube I also messed with my camera and discovered it has a timer, so I set up a little stand and took a cheesy contemplative picture of me in the distance.

I left there around 9:45, heading downhill for quite a while. When I was about halfway down I met a couple day hikers who asked me some questions, then a little after that I met another batch going up. Three younger kids and a chaperon. One of the young guys was huffing and puffing, and asked me if he was almost there. I tried to give him a positive answer, because he did have a tough few miles to go, so hopefully he made it up there with a smile still on his face.

When I came close to the road crossing there were two different moments of trail magic. The first was a case of Budweiser, which I didn't take advantage of because 1. they were warm, and 2. it would dehydrate me. But the second trail magic was some PB crackers and fresh veggies, cucumbers and tomatoes, so I took a cuke and a packet of crackers, then headed out. It was pretty much uphill to the shelter from there, Ore Hill was the name, and when I got there I stopped in. There I met a nice guy named Steps who is doing a section from Hanover to Franconia Notch, as well as Stubs who I had met the other day. I ate some lunch while they finished up, so they left before me, but within 5 minutes of them leaving a couple came in. Mr. H and Skimmer from Florida. I talked to them for a while, mostly Skimmer because Mr. H was getting the water.

I left there with 7.5 miles to Glencliff with the hostel, pushing to make it asap because I wasn't sure if I'd be staying or not and wanted to take full advantage of things if I was going to run after a few hours. There wasn't much to see in that section anyway, but a little after Mt. Mist there was a viewspot that also said "Beware of Tourists". The view was okay, it was mostly obscured because of trees, but through it you could see Mt. Moosilauke to the left. It looked huge, one of the first big climbs of the Whites at about 4800 ft. I made it to the road at around 4:30 and walked the .5 miles to Hikers Welcome Hostel. I grabbed a soda, plugged in my phone, then waited to take a shower. I decided to stay after the shower because I saw on the weather report that it'll probably rain tonight. Hopefully it'll pass by morning because I want to leave here early and get over that mountain by 12. I've heard it can be "treacherous" going down, so I'm a bit nervous, especially if the weather is bad. I'll just have to take it slow and extra careful. Anyway I'm getting tired so I'll probably go to bed soon, but not until I write all the stealth sites into my guidebook. I found the list here after all!

Total miles: 1780.6

Going up.

Day 103 - 8/1/10
I went to bed fairly early last night so I was able to get up and
moving by 7:30. It also helped to have the others camping nearby
because they're all early risers (5:30-6am) so I could hear them
moving around and stuff.

The hike up from Mink Brook to Moose Mountain was quick and painless,
so when I got to the shelter of the same name I stopped there and
caught up on some guidebook notes while snacking on homemade chocolate
chip cookies Mom had given me. It felt good to finally catch up to my
present location, and from now on I will try to put the notes in at
the end of each day. The trail sloped gently uphill from there, then
nosedived almost 1400 ft. in two miles, and then went right back up
1200 ft. in another two. Holts Ledge was just over the other side of
the summit, and when I got there I had caught up to Tillerman, Tequila
John, and Kutsa. The ledge was a decent view, although tiny, but since
everyone was there taking a break I decided to as well.

After maybe 15 minutes we all left, going right back down 1200 ft. to
a road crossing. A little past that was a sign directing hikers to a
house where they could fill up on water, and there was also some sort
of ice cream logo. I had gotten a litle ahead of the others, so I was
the first to check it out. The house, actually the yard, was full of
people because they were having a family reunion there. They were
still assisting hikers though, so I filled up on water, got a free
fudgesicle, and then 2 cokes for a dollar. Not bad. It was funny
because all the young kids were so eager to assist us with our water
and sodas. Plus they had lots of questions even though we weren't the
first hikers they'd seen. I met another hiker there, Just Jim was his
name. He's sectioning all the way from Harpers Ferry, which is well
over half of the trail. The other 3 came soon after I did, so we all
stayed for a bit, but not too long because we felt a little intrusive
on their festivities. I said goodbye, thanked them for the
hospitality, then got on my merry way.

The trail went back into the woods, stayed pretty level, then crossed
the same road it had earlier only further along. From there it was
another steep climb, at least 1400 ft. in a mile, which is very steep!
My calf muscles were burning again for the first time since I can't
remember when. It's been a while. It did flatten out eventually, but
it was more like a tease because it went up again, almost just as
steep as before. These aren't even the hard climbs yet either.
Honestly though I really enjoy the big ups, and today was no
exception. You get a real satisfaction when you reach the top.

I did make it to the top, sometime close to 3:30. I went up the fire
tower to check the view (gorgeous), met a couple day hikers with a
dog, then went on to make some more miles. I wanted to do at least 4,
which would bring me to a brook where I could maybe camp. Usually
water sources have some decent tent spots, much like yesterday.
Unfortunately there was nothing, so I just topped off my bottles then
hiked on, going up once again. About halfway between the north and
south side of Jacobs Brook I was passing along a cliff edge the looked
like a great place to catch a sunset. I decided if I could find a spot
close enough I would stick around there. Only a hundred or so feet up
the trail I found one right on this smooth rock surface. Flat too. I'd
never camped on rock yet, so I said, "Why not?" and started setting
up. After that was set I cooked up dinner, soup packet with some tuna
thrown in. When I had eaten and cleaned up I walked back down the
trail, sat myself on the rocks to watch the sunset, and that's exactly
where I am right now. It's fading behind the mountains as we speak. I
even brought along a box of Mike & Ikes my Dad had given me for my
bday, munching on those as I watched. It's almost like going to the
movies. Poor man's entertainment. It's also wierd for me to think that
this giant glowing thing is slowly (or is it quickly?) making its way
toward Jen in L.A. Pretty soon she will see it set too. It still
amazes me to think about how all the things in this universe function
together. Anyway, enough of that nerdy tangent.

After the sun sets I'll be going back to my tent, maybe read for a
bit, then call it an early night. There's a town I want to hit
tomorrow that has a hostel in it, more so I can just charge my phone.
I won't be staying, most likely. Plus I've heard they have a list of
the stealth campsites in the Whites that you can take, so I want one
of those. That's all from me until tomorrow.

Total miles: 1765.1

Bittersweet Birthday.

Day 102 - 7/31/10
Stayed up kind of late watching television (more Discovery channel) so
when I woke up at 8 I was a bit groggy. Christie, Mom, and I went
downstairs and had the free continental breakfast, which reminded me a
lot of the one I had at the HoJos in Daleville. After eating we went
back upstairs and just did some good old fashion relaxing. Felt great.
Around ten we finally got to packing up, and by 11 had checked out.

I needed to get a new hiking shirt because the one I've been using
really smells. Had it since Springer Mt. in GA, so a new one was in
order. We drove back to Hanover, and I compared products and prices at
the two outfitters in town. I went with a Patagonia shirt from
Mountain Goat, and I'm happy with it. Hopefully it doesn't start to
smell right away. After that we walked around Hanover, going in some
stores and also around some of the Dartmouth campus. It was fun to
just stroll and do whatever, very different than most my days of late.

When it was lunchtime we went to the same pizza place I had gone
yesterday for my free slice. I tried a few of their different pies, a
BBQ pizza and a chicken bacon ranch Sicilian slice. Mom also bought a
batch of the garlic knots to share because of how good I said they
were. I think her and Christie both enjoyed them. It was funny going
back because half the patrons were hikers. That free slice gimmick
must bring in a lot of business, and is one reason why I'm sure they
do it. Word of free food spreads quickly on the trail.

The next place we hit up was Ben & Jerry's, which again I had done
yesterday after pizza. Almost like deja vú (sp?). I had some Cherry
Garcia, which is quickly becoming a new favorite of mine. I also
learned how that name and flavor came to be courtesy of a company
timeline poster. We walked back to the car as we finished our cones,
and by then it was close to 2pm so they had to get going.

We drove up to the trailhead, got out there and took some pictures.
They both walked over with me past the Dartmouth soccer field into the
woods where the AT continues on, took a few more photos, then said
goodbye. It was bittersweet because I was very happy to have seen
them, but it was over and done way too quickly, and so when I left
them I was a bit saddened and depressed. I started to really miss the
feeling of comfort, being able to see family, Jen, and real life in
general. I'm ready to get this thing done, but I know when I'm
finished I will also be sad that it's over. A lot of mixed emotions
going on.

Because I started rather late I didn't put in too many miles today.
Around 8.5. It was mostly flat out of Hanover, a few small bumps here
and there, but nothing like what's to come. I met a guy a few miles in
who just started today, doing a section from Hanover to Gorham, NH.
He's done everything south of there so he's very close to finishing up
the trail after this year. Pretty much just Maine left. We talked and
hiked together a bit, then I went ahead to be alone again. I kind of
wanted it to be that way today, especially after feeling a bit down.
Just so I could clear my head. Eventually the miles started adding up,
but when I came to Mink Brook and saw Kutsa, Tillerman, and Tequila
John had set up a nice campsite I decided to stay. By then it was
close to 6, so I was fine with stopping.

I called Jen after I had set up my tent and all. It was nice to be
able to talk to her a bit on my bday. Afterward I made dinner, then
hung out and talked with the others until about 8:30. A little past
nine now, so I'm heading to bed after this. Glad too because I'm very
tired. Tomorrow I have some mountains I have to start facing, and very
soon I will be in the Whites. Can't wait.

Total miles: 1745.9

12 down, 2 to go. (You stay classy Vermont)

Day 101 - 7/30/10
Woke around 6:45 and headed over to the convenience store a little
after 7 for breakfast. Fynias, Rainer, iTrod, and I all ordered the
"Full Belly Breakfast". Two eggs, two pieces of meat (your choice),
bread, hash browns, and two pancakes. Doesn't sound like all that
much, but the pancakes are what did me in. I couldn't even finish one
they were so huge, and ended up giving the other to Dewlap. I'm glad I
didn't try to tackle the whole breakfast because I would have been
sick, and what I ate of it fueled me all the way to Hanover.

When I left I hiked with Fynias to the first shelter. Another 3-4
miles where I was able to have some conversation while I hiked. Been
enjoying that lately. We made it to Happy Hill shelter around 10:30.
After breaking for 15 minutes we left and met up with Rainer and
Dewlap on the trail very quickly, so our group grew to 4. I led the
way and we trudged onward to town and NH. The hiking went by very fast
because we were such a large group, and before I knew it we were
crossing the Connecticut River into New Hampshire. We had a short 5
minute photo session at the border, so it was probably close to 1pm
when we actually strolled through the town part of Hanover. It was
somewhat of a bizarre experience because it's parents weekend at
Dartmouth, so the town was buzzing with activity everywhere.
Overwhelming in some ways.

First we went to the P.O. so the three of them could pick up their
maildrops, then we went to this pizza place that gives a free slice to
thru hikers. I ended up also getting some garlic knots and a Long
Trail draft beer. The knots were unbelievably good, drenched in
garlic, butter, Parmesan, olive oil, and herbs. After that gorgeous
meal Rainer, Dewlap, and I topped off the pizza with some Ben &
Jerry's ice cream. I actually had a milkshake. While there I called my
Mom who was on her way, just updating her on where to meet. We decided
on the library, so after the ice cream I headed on down there. I took
out a laptop, messing around until Mom and Christie showed up. As I'm
doing so I looked up from the computer and there they were in the
lobby area, looking around for me. I was shocked, I didn't think
they'd be able to find the library without a second phonecall. I ran
over to them, gave some hugs, then introduced them to Rainer & Dewlap.

After that we headed out so that I could shower asap at the White
River Junction Holiday Inn where my Mom got a room. Christie was
making many comments about my stink, so it was necessary to get that
over and done with right away. While I did my Mom threw my laundry in
the washer, and after that was done we headed out for some dinner at a
nice Italian restaurant in Lebanon, NH. Three Tomatoes I think the
name was. We got there probably around 6:30 and got seated right away.
The food was fantastic, great quality and sizes. I had chicken breast
with pesto, and then linguini with sweet & spicy sausage. It was a
nice dinner together, and we left there completely stuffed and
satisfied.

When we got back to the hotel I got a surprise phonecall from Far Far,
my grandfather, wishing me a happy birthday. It was great to hear from
him, and it's always nice to get a birthday greeting. After talking
with him we had some cake that my Mom made. It was awesome chocolate
cake with vanilla frosting and whipped cream middle. All homemade. My
favorite. Then I opened some cards, as well as a gift bag from Dad
full of trail goodies. I was overwhelmed with it all, and can't thank
everyone enough, but I will try, and hopefully when I'm done the trail
I can do a more adequate job. So thank you Mom, Dad, Mor Mor & Far
Far, Christie, Mary, and everyone else for making this a great b-day,
even though it is a day early it's still just as fantastic.

I'm very tired now, it felt like I did so much today, so I'll call it
a night. A late one for me, heading to bed now at 11:15. Hopefully I
can do a few more fun things with Mom and Christie before I head back
out.

Total miles: 1737.3

Early birthday present.

Day 100 - 7/29/10
Into the triple digits for hiking days. Almost can't believe it. Then
again that also means I'm getting closer and closer to being in Maine,
and then Katahdin, which is just as crazy to believe.

Anyway, it was a good decision to stay in the shelter last night. It
poured in the middle of the night, so hard and so loud that I couldn't
even sleep. I actually had a terrible night, tossing and turning the
entire time. It was tightly packed in there to the point where I
couldn't get comfortable. I guess I'd rather be a little groggier in
the morning then have a wet tent to put away though. There was a funny
moment in the middle of the night too. Rainer must've been having some
sort of vivid dream because suddenly he let out this loud yell that
woke everyone up. Maybe a nightmare of some sort. I think he was a bit
embarrassed, but actually it seems to be a common occurence out here.
I've heard a lot of people have dreams to the point of yelling. Not
sure why though, perhaps it's the abrupt change in lifestyle. Who knows.

I left Winturri shelter at 8, heading downhill to route 12. On the way
I passed the happiest blaze I've ever seen. Someone carved a big smile
and two eye slits into it, which made it seem like it was saying,
"Right this way, hiker. Come along, don't be shy. I'm happy to be of
service." I took a picture to remember the little guy. When I got to
route 12 I saw a sign on the AT billboard saying a farm was close on
down the road with all sorts of treats. I walked to it, was the first
customer of the morning, and bought a nice mixed berry mini-pie and a
soda. Now the pie in Deleware Water Gap was good, but this was
absolutely "gorgeous", as Churchill would say. I enjoyed that, then
went in and bought some buffalo meat sticks that were great as well.
All in all an excellent stop.

I was lounging for a while when I realized suddenly how much time I
had spent there, so I quickly got my pack on and booked it up the
trail. It was tough going from the farm, and when I had caught up to
iTrod around 12:30 I saw I had only done a measly 7 miles. I think it
was because the day was so tough, much like yesterday. Up and down, up
and down, again and again. I'm not complaining, I'm just saying it was
tough and slow-going. When I started up from that break things seemed
to pick up a bit, and by the time I had made the 11.6 miles to Thistle
Hill shelter it was 3pm. Rainer & Dewlap, iTrod, and Fireball all
rolled in right around when I did. I parked my stuff in the shelter,
met a SOBO from Richmond, VA, filled up on water, then headed out to
push for West Hartford like everyone else. We were all excited about
hitting up the convenience mart in town for sandwiches and ice cream.

I started moving really slow, and pretty soon I was alone. It was nice
though because a majority of it was downhill, and that 5 miles also
took me through some diverse locations. I went through thick pine
forests, so dark because the canopy was overgrown, a giant wide open
field atop the mountain with wind whipping around, and hordes of
overgrown sections. In those parts there were lots of raspberry &
black raspberry plants, so I was slowed down a little because of the
snacking opportunities.

I eventually made it into town about 6 and quickly hustled to the
store. The others had already made it and were eating delicious
looking sandwiches. I went with a buffalo chicken, bacon, cheese, and
ranch dressing sub called the Pomfret (named after a nearby town).
Delicious. After I ate I asked if there was a place nearby where
hikers could tent because I'd heard some folks in this town allowed
that on their property. There was one a few hundred feet down, and
when I went in to ask the lady instantly said yes. Her name was Kathy
and she was totally cool with it. Her and her husband have a big
backyard and they said anywhere was fine. It ended up being iTrod,
Rainer, Dewlap, Fireball, Phynious, and myself that set up tents. A
good amount definitely. Kathy and her husband have a nice big firepit
in their backyard so they got a fire going, then joined us as we sat
around it. Rainer and Dewlap had bought me a cupcake for my bday, and
everyone ended up singing "Happy Birthday" to me as I held it, a tiny
twig in place of a candle. The stick wasn't flaming, but the end was
burning, so after they wrapped up the song I extinguished it with my
pointer and thumb, then scarfed. Was actually a very good cupcake, but
just having that moment out here was even better. The singing and all
that I mean. It was so kind of them (R & D) to think of me like that,
and to have the song sung was like having an actual party. A great way
to end my day, especially after being another tough one. On to Hanover
tomorrow where I'll be spending some time with Mom and Christie. Can't
wait. Almost 11, gotta catch some zzzZZZs!

Total miles: 1727.5

Tough days.

Day 99 - 7/28/10
I had a strange dream last night. I was with a very random collection
of past and present friends, and we were making a stew. I think I was
cooking it, and all the friends were going to eat it. The stew had
potatoes, cabbage, beets, and probably other vegetables I'm not
remembering. Someone complained that it tasted like PCT roast beef
(whatever that means...?) and I clearly remember boasting how I had
doused it with salt and it shouldn't taste that way. Maybe there was
something in that Guiness stew that made me dream about making my own,
or it was just that good. Reading this it might not sound like a
strange dream, but for me it felt peculiar.

I had a late start, not leaving until 9:00. I didn't really get back
to the AT until even later because I had to take a steep sidetrail up
from the Inn. For the first few miles it was downhill, not bad at all.
As I was passing across Thundering Brook Rd. I met 4 day hikers. I
only stopped for a second to answer some of their questions, and I got
an orange out of it! Oranges are a great fruit to have on the trail,
something about that burst of citrus that's just really satisfying. By
the time I was crossing the boardwalk over Ottauqueechee River (sweet
name, right?) I had caught up to iTrod. We ended up hiking up Quimby
Mt. together, a super steep climb of 1100 feet in 1.3 miles. It was
nice hiking with someone for a while, I hadn't done it in a long time,
and we talked about all sorts of stuff, from jobs to school to reasons
for being on the trail and so on. We stuck together right up to Stony
Brook Shelter where we took a break at around 1:30.

We met two SOBOers there, Coyote (younger kid from Boston) and Hobbit
(older guy from Maine). They were both cool guys and we ended up
exchanging a lot of trail advice, places to stop, the best hostels,
and so on. Always good to get that info. When I left around two I soon
met Rainer and Dewlap at a watering hole, I think Stony Brook. They
had gone past me last night since I had gone down to the Inn, but when
I met them today we stuck together for a few hours. Actually we caught
up to iTrod soon, and then became a group of 4. I think that's the
biggest group I've hiked in for that period of time, close to 3 hours.
It was nice to have some external conversation for once instead of all
the stuff going on in my head.

We made it to Chateauguay Rd. and took a break, and that's where we
all parted ways. It was only 5.4 to the shelter from there so I really
wanted to make it asap. Rain looked as if it was on the horizon and I
was hoping to dodge it if I could. Those 5 miles were the easiest of
the day, but far from easy. Today was actually very strenuous, one of
the hardest I've had in a long time. Lots of steep ups, and then no
rewarding view at the top either. I made it in to the shelter before
seven, so I was happy because that had been my goal. A few others were
here, 3 NOBOs I'd never met, all very friendly. I parked my stuff in
the shelter, wasn't going to risk a wet tent tonight, and soon Rainer
& Dewlap showed up. Then iTrod pulled in, and even Fireball a little
after, so the shelter got full quick. It rained for a few minutes here
and there while I did my cooking, but not any sort of hard soaking
rain. I hope it does in the middle of the night, I don't want to have
slept in a crowded shelter for nothing.

Getting really excited for Hanover on Friday, can't wait to see my Mom
and sis! And I forgot to mention this yesterday, but I'm now under 500
miles to go! Whoa! Goodnight!

Total miles: 1711.1

An Irish ending.

Day 98 - 7/27/10
Didn't sleep too great even though it was a nice cool night. I kept
having to readjust my headrest, never getting it comfortable enough. I
woke up around 7, now my usual wake up time, and left a minute before
8. I started with a steep uphill, which changed to a gradual after a
while, then back down. There were a lot of road crossings early on,
not busy roads, but roads all the same. After crossing one I came upon
some cooler magic maybe 50 ft. into the woods. Ice cold Mt. Dew.
That's actually the perfect trail soda because it has the most sugar
and caffeine per can. The best part about that trail magic was that
whoever left it also provided a chair to enjoy it in. So I chugged my
Dew while sitting comfortably, then continued onward with a nice
caffeine buzz.

I made it to the first shelter, 5.8 miles away, around 10:30, and
iTrod was there. I only stopped long enough to eat a quick snack, then
left to tackle Killington. It actually was a very enjoyable climb, not
too steep, but enough to get your heart rate going. I was at the top
(well almost, the AT doesn't go over the summit) for lunch, so I
stopped to eat. The shelter up there is called Cooper Lodge, and man
was it cruddy. Glad I didn't stay there for a night. iTrod ended up
catching up while I ate, so we continued our movie convo a bit. He's a
real cool guy to talk to about that stuff, and I'm sure he and I could
have a discussion that would last hours. He had a lot of
recommendations for me that I'd never heard of, so I'll definitely be
checking those out when I'm done.

I left at 1:30, about 8.5 miles left to complete of the goal I had set
for the day. There was one more shelter I stopped at between then, but
only for a quick 10 minutes. From there to route 4 was mostly
downhill, but then from there to my destination felt like a horrendous
climb. The elevation profile in my guidebook didn't look too bad, but
I'd have to say it felt way off. The climb was steep and long, and
only after the AT & LT split apart did it get easier. It was 1.5 miles
from the split to the side trail that takes you down to the Inn at
Long Trail, so that felt pretty quick. I made it in at 5:30 or so and
went in to check the hiker rates. They actually weren't too bad, but I
decided to just tent nearby instead because my Mom and sister will be
meeting me in Hanover in only 3 days, and there I'll be able to shower
and have a nice bed.

So after I decided against that I went outside and made myself some
dinner, then set up my tent across the street in a free tenting area.
Then I went over to the Irish pub located inside the Inn to get myself
my first Guiness on tap. Watching him fill the glass was awesome, and
it took a good 5-10 minutes to do it because you have to wait for the
head to disappear. And he even put a clover in the head to top it off,
just like they do in Ireland, or so I've heard. That first sip was
amazing, and each one after that was even better. Guiness on tap
tastes completely different than a can or bottle, and is 1000 times
better. As you can see I really enjoyed it. I ended up meeting and
talking to another hiker for quite a while, Wildcat was his name.
Originally from Germany, he's doing a SOBO LT trip, then just
continuing south to Springer. Long ways to go, but he's hiked the AT
before so he knows what's in store. iTrod ended up coming into the pub
as well, and because he knew it was my b-day in a few days he bought
me a pint. I ended up having about 3-4 overall, plus a second dinner
(amazing Guiness beef stew) so needless to say I felt good leaving the
place.

It's getting late now, almost ten, so I should be getting to bed.
Hopefully I can get out of here at a decent time. Was looking at
something around 19 tomorrow. We'll see. Had a nice day, with an
awesome place to stop at the end. I hope I can come back here some day!

Total miles: 1693.1

Another day, another dolla--I mean mountain.

Day 97 - 7/26/10
Woke up about 7 and left by 8. Had a slow gradual uphill past 2-3
shelters in a span of less than 4 miles. In that time I passed a
really nice pond, Little Rock Pond, a very tempting place to swim, but
it was too early. I took an early break after 3.7 miles for a snack,
then pressed on after 10 minutes. I stopped again when I was almost to
the top of the mountain so I could finally post yesterdays blog. It
seems that service is getting spotty again, so I'll be having to do
more stops to check for service areas if I can't post at the end of
the night.

When I had that posted I pressed on and the woods suddenly changed
from a variant forest to a pine forest almost instantaneously. It was
bizarre, one second there was variety, the next it was just pine.
Through that section I passed a few what I would call AT shrines.
Hundreds of stacks of rocks upon rocks. I don't know if other trails
have those, so I will only apply this to the AT, but if hiking were a
religion out here the symbolic insignia would be a stack of rocks. Not
a pile, a stack. A pile is something haphazard and accidental, whereas
a stack takes planning and thought. Each piece is meticulously placed.
I love seeing those.

When I made it to VT 140 I stopped by a brook for lunch, having some
flatbreads with PB & Nutella. Then it was up and over Button Hill, a
fairly steep climb. Minerva Shelter came soon after so I pulled in to
refill water, eat a snack, then moved on. Pretty soon I was at
Clarendon Gorge, a vast fast-moving water source that would be a great
swimming spot on a hot day. Today was actually not hot though, perfect
weather with awesome breezes and cool temps. Ideal hiking conditions,
so I didn't swim. Clarendon Shelter was a mile after that, and I
decided to call it a day there.

I met another guy named Bodacious, also going NOBO on the AT. We
started collecting wood for a fire, and just as we were about to get
her started a guy came rolling in on his ATV. He's actually the
caretaker and was just checking in. He ended up staying quite a while
chatting with us. In the time he was there Fireball, iTrod, and Wink
(a girl NOBO LT-er) pulled in. He really loved to talk. I made dinner,
mac and cheese with some Italian salami pieces thrown in. The salami
didn't taste all that good so next time I'll get regular. That's what
I've been having, and loved it, so I wish I had just stuck with it.
While I ate iTrod and I had a long convo about movies and stuff, which
I of course greatly enjoyed. He knows his stuff too, and has seen lots
that I haven't. Definitely got some good recommendations.

Pretty average day today, nothing too crazy or exciting. Tomorrow
should be a lot of fun because I'll be going over Killington, one of
the highest peaks in Vermont. Plus I'll finish up my day right where
the AT & LT finally diverge. That means I'll be in NH very soon!

Total miles: 1674.8

Real life "Oregon Trail" fording.

Day 96 - 7/25/10
Remember that computer game? Well I lived it! More on that later.
Slept in for a change. Didn't get up until 8:45. After packing up
slowly I left Sutton's Place around 10ish, saying goodbye to Rainer &
Dewlap because they were meeting some family friends for breakfast. I
walked to Main St. and went into EMS (one of the two outfitters in
town) and asked where the best place to hitch might be. The guy said
just keep walking, stick out your thumb, and people will see the pack
and know you're a hiker and stop. On my way out I passed by Fireball,
a German kid I had met way back, but hadn't seen since Trail Days. We
did one of those excited, "How you been, man?" exchanges, then parted
ways. I ended up seeing him several more times throughout the day back
on the trail.

I started walking down Main St. with my thumb out, but had no takers.
I walked past a donut shop, stopped in there for a few, then went on,
and still no ride. I walked at least a mile out of town and still
nothing. Any farther and I'd be on the fast highway and then no one
would stop, so I waited right there, and finally the most unlikely
person pulled over for me. An older women, alone, driving a nice car,
maybe a Lexus. Her name was Mrs. Black, and I was so thankful toward
her. I had been starting to get frustrated with the amount of cars
that flew past me, but Mrs. Black made my day. Apparently she does
that sort of thing for a lot of hikers, she'll always stop if she sees
a pack, which I think is smart. I wouldn't stop for any random
hitchhiker, but if you see a large pack and poles you know they're
just a hiker needing a lift. For being such a kindly old lady she sure
had some fire in her soul. Not evil, just feisty. Another car had
pulled out in front of us when it shouldn't have, and then it was
driving slow, so she honked at it until they pulled into the other
lane. At least she made it a memorable ride.

She dropped me off at the trail around 11am, so I ended up starting
out much later than I had wanted. I had a few big uphills right away,
putting me back into the 3000-footers. My first one took me up to
Bromley Mountain. It's also a ski mountain, and they had the chairlift
running to give lazy hikers a shortcut. Or I guess friends could meet
up with someone on the trail. The next mountain was Styles Peak, and
then after that Peru Peak. In between those last two I met two guys
from Massachusetts who had started hiking only recently. They were
both obese guys, but seeing them work hard and push on even though it
was tough was awesome. It makes me happy to see overweight people out
here trying to change their lives. I hope they keep going, their goal
they said was either Katahdin or 160 lbs., combined not each.

Near the top of Peru Peak I met a guy doing the LT, and we hiked
together a bit. We split up when I stopped to put on my pack cover,
and thank god I did because a nasty rainstorm blew through drenching
me to the bone. I was only 20 minutes from a shelter too, if only I
had gotten that ride sooner. He was at the shelter when I came in, and
we waited out the rain. Fireball had caught up to us by then, but just
as we were leaving. He stayed behind to take a break. From that
shelter it was mostly downhill except for a small bump up onto Baker's
Peak. By then it had cleared up so we had a great view, even though it
was less than 3000 feet. I left there around 5:30, hiked the two miles
to the next shelter, stopped for a minute, then left to do 1.7 more to
Big Branch shelter. Right before I got there I had to ford Big Branch
River, and it took me about 15 minutes to find a decent spot to cross.
I took my boots and socks off, then slowly rock-hopped to the other
side. There were a few points where I had to walk through the water,
and that current was so strong I could have easily been swept away.
They (Green Mountain Club) actually advise using a detour, but it adds
three extra miles that I didn't want to do. Plus it was a fun
challenge. I made it across and soon was at the shelter. A few others
were here, iTrod, Jibitz, and Phynias, all hikers I have met but don't
know too well. All nice people for sure. I made dinner, some tuna and
rice, then set up in the shelter because I was nervous it might rain
tonight. Close to 9:30 now. Had a good mileage day for my start time.
Hope to put in at least a 20 tomorrow.

Total miles: 1657.9

Zero #11

Day 0 - 7/24/10
Woke up around 7:30 and went downstairs for breakfast. They had a
bunch of cereals down there so I had Cinnamon Toast Crunch and Cocoa
Crispies. Nice to have some of that, I rarely get to have milk
anymore. Jeff shuttled me into town at 9:30 to the bookstore where I
met Rainer & Dewlap. I dropped my pack off at Sutton's Place, which is
where they were staying, then we walked downtown to get second
breakfast. I had scrambled eggs, bacon, hashbrowns, sourdough toast,
and coffee. Really tasty, and Rainer & Dewlap paid for mine because of
a pizza I had bought for all of us way back in Damascus, VA. Thought
that was really nice of them.

Afterward we split up and I went to check out the outfitter again, and
also the movie theater to see what was playing, but there was nothing
good so I walked back up to the place we were staying and caught up on
some guidebook journaling. I try to put notes here and there in my
book at places where something special happens or a cool view, and I
hadn't written anything since Kent, CT.

After I had finished up that I just lounged around, watching
television and eating. Today was the most relaxing zero I've had
because I really didn't do much. Most times I'm running around getting
things done, laundry, resupply, etc., but not today. Just what the
doctor ordered. I ended up getting sucked into this show for several
hours called Duel Survivor. It's on Discovery Channel and it's about
these two guys who go into different ecosystems and try to find their
way back to civilization. Makes what I'm doing seem tame in
comparison, but these guys also have years of experience and all. It
really is amazing what they can do out there with limited supplies. I
love the Discovery Channel.

After watching a ton of that I took a shower, then Rainer, Dewlap, and
I went out to get some dinner at a pizza place. I had a turkey and
bacon panini that was very good. They both had pasta. Then we walked
back to the Inn, and I was tempted to get a pint of Cherry Garcia on
the way back after realizing how good it was when I ate it at Green
Mountain House last night, but I was too full and didn't want to
overdue it. We made it back and started watching One Flew Over The
Cuckoos Nest on AMC. Good Nicholson flick. It's about 9:30 now so I'll
be heading to bed shortly. Back to the trail tomorrow. Been a nice day.

Green Mountain House, has more than meets the eye! Route 11, Vermont. (You'd get this if you're from Maine)

Day 95 - 7/23/10
I guess I'm a hypocrite because I used an alarm last night, but I'm glad I did because it allowed me to get into town early enough to do all the things I needed to. When it went off at 5:30 I groaned, laid there about ten minutes, then started breaking down camp and having breakfast. I was up and out by 6:30, very groggy and with a headache, but I wad moving.

Those first few hours were not all that fun, but by 8:00 I had made close to 4 miles and was feeling better. I went up and summitted Stratton Mountain at 9:30, an elevation of 3936 ft. and the biggest peak the AT crosses in Vermont. It's awesome to be hitting big mountains again, and there was a fire tower atop this one that had great views all around. Wind was fierce up there though, and frigid, so I didn't hang around too long. From there on out the rest of the day was rainy. The good thing was that it wasn't torrential, just soft constant rain. I'm now completely comfortable with walking in the stuff, it doesn't faze me.

One thing I thought about today was the mud. With all the rain we had it got real squishy, and my boots were squelching through it. That's legit, they really made a squelch sound. And with each sinking step all I could think about was that scene in Jurassic Park when the T-Rex first shows up and you see its giant foot submerge in the mud. I'm beginning to think they shot those scenes in VT. Anyway I hiked from Stratton all the way to two shelters away without breaking. In between that distance I met Dewlap's mom who was planning on meeting her and Rainer on the trail. She was nice and I talked with her a bit, but not too long because if you sit still in the rain you get chilly. When I made it to that shelter I didn't go down to it because it was .5 off the trail, so I just ate a quick snack at the trailhead. Had a cold ramen, which I haven't done in some time. Today would have been a good day to have it hot though, but again I didn't want to sit in the rain too long.

I stopped at the next shelter real quick to check the register, then pushed the last 2.8 miles to route 11 so I could get into Manchester. I was there probably around 3:30, which put me at 21.2 miles for the day. I think I could have managed a 30-miler if I wasn't going into town for resupply and it hadn't been raining. I was just feeling it. I was afraid it'd be a tough hitch into town because for one it was an extremely fast road with no real place to pull over, and two it was raining hard at that point and no one wants to pick up a wet person, especially if that person is also a smelly hiker. Fortunately a guy and two ladies pulled into the parking lot nearby, so I shamelessly went up to them and asked for a ride. They said sure, and the ride down was interesting. They weren't driving bad by any means, but I think because it's been so long since I've driven and it was rainy, wet roads, I was semi-freaking out in my head. The road was windy and I thought for sure we were going to crash. We did not, we made it safe into town, and they kindly dropped me off at the grocery store, which is actually right next to an outfitter. First I bought some new socks, then resupplied at the grocers, then went to McDonalds and relived my Big Mac craving a second time. After all that I met up with some other hikers who were also going to the Green Mountain House hostel. We called up Jeff, the guy who runs it, and he came and picked us up. Real nice guy, and right off the bat super friendly and accommodating. Plus this is an awesome house with a shower, bed, kitchen use, a pint of B & J's included, and for one night only an amazing trail magic dinner of steak, potatoes, corn, salad, bread, beans, sodas, eclairs for dessert, and probably 2 or 3 other things I've forgotten. All of it provided by some 2009 hikers who just wanted to pay it back. It was amazing. After getting sufficiently stuffed I went on the comp and added a new album of pictures to the blog, so check 'em out! It concludes Jerz and goes right up to today, and even has the pics of the firetower I climbed earlier today.

Tomorrow I'll probably zero in town with Rainer and Dewlap for free, courtesy of Rainer's dad. I guess he paid for a hotel room in town for two nights and I can't pass up a free stay, plus this is a nice town. And I overpurchased so I'll be eating down my rations all day tomorrow. 'Twas a fine day all 'round.

Total miles: 1641.4