11 down, 3 to go. (Welcome to Vermud)

Day 93 - 7/21/10
That's what I saw someone write on a wooden register box near the
border. Very true too. As soon as you cross states there's a
monumental increase in the amount of mud in the path. Sort of strange
how that is.

I was moving around by 7, but I didn't leave until 8:15 because I got
caught up in reading while I ate breakfast. Hobbit spoiler alert: Bard
has just slain Smaug and now it seems as if war between the men/elves
and the dwarves will ensue. I'm sure good ol' Bilbo will get
everything fixed before it happens though.

My day started with a good climb, 1000 ft. in a little under 3 miles
to the MA-VT border. I recorded some songs onto my voice recorder to
have entertainment while I walk, and as I crossed over it happened to
be playing a Phish song. Thought that was appropriate to hear
considering they hail from Vermont. Got me in the VT state of mind.
Side note: Obviously for me to be able to listen to the recorder it
has to be working again. I figured it would because to be honest this
isn't the first time I've gotten it wet. Another time I had it in an
outside pocket during a torrential rainstorm and it got soaked. I
thought it was done that time, but it came back to life, so now I'm
wondering if it has nine lives like me, or three strikes and I'm out.
Either way, I don't want to test it again. I'm so happy it came back
this time.

As I said earlier, the mud started showing up everywhere, making my
new boots look very used rather quickly. I didn't stop at the first
shelter because it was off the trail, so instead I took a break at a
road a little further up. A little past that when I was hiking again I
met two women who were hiking the Vermont Long Trail. The LT and AT
are concurrent for a little more then 100 miles, so I bet the trail is
going to feel a little more crowded then it has been. Plus it seems
this is where a lot of NOBOs and SOBOs cross paths, so even more
traffic. I talked to them for a bit, then went onward planning to
break at the next shelter. Along the way I hiked past many ponds and
swamps, and there was one where the trail follows along the edge of
it, but the pond itself is higher up then you are by about three feet.
Dont ask me how it works, but it looked like there was a wall of
grasses and mud holding it off from flooding the trail. I took a
picture but it doesn't portray what I'm describing very well.

I made it to Congdon shelter just before a rainstorm hit, meeting two
other girls doing the LT. Both very nice. They hiked in the rain, but
I waited it out by eating and reading. I'm close to the end of this
book so now I'm having a hard time putting it down. Everything is so
climactic. The rain passed in about an hour, and by the time it
wrapped up the two LT ladies from before showed up. I was packing as
they unpacked, so again we talked a bit. Today was actually day 1 of
their trek. Must be exciting, I remember that time.

From out of that shelter it was a small climb up, then a big drop to
route 9. The downhill there was so steep, but fortunately they had
stone steps that made it a little easier. These weren't like the ones
at Bear Mt. in NY, but still very impressive craftsmanship considering
the location and terrain. Every time I go up or down stone steps I'm
always reminded of this scene in Lord of the Rings: Return of the King
when Gollum has led Frodo and Samwise to a secret staircase to sneak
into Mordor. When they get to it he points up and says, "The stairs."
in his nasty voice. If there's a stone staircase out here, no matter
if I'm going up or down, I will always hear Gollum's voice saying
that. I can't help it. Sorry for that nerdy anecdote. Don't hate.

When I crossed route 9 and started going back uphill again my arms and
hips had had enough. I'd been sweating a lot today, and my tight
hipbelt and wet shirt has been irritating my skin to the point of
rashes. When I was heading uphill from there I had to stop and take a
break because the pain was so bad, especially on my hips. Just imagine
wearing the same salty, sweaty pair of shorts day after day rubbing
hard against your hips for 10-12 hours at a time. Not a comfortable
thought, right? Later on I was able to wash up my clothes in a brook,
and on Friday I'll be able to shower, so hopefully I can make it
through until then somewhat pain free.

I made it to the next shelter, Melville Nauheim, around 5:45. There
were some others around, Kentucky, Pacer, and Stumbler. I made dinner,
ramen with sweet and spicy tuna, plus some mild (green) Tobasco sauce.
It came out really good for some reason, one of my best recipes yet.
Maybe I was just really hungry. After dinner I did a few more miles to
Hell Hollow Brook to camp. I was drawn in by that cheerful name. It's
actually a nice brook (the one I washed up in) and I can hear it from
my tent. I always enjoy that. Not sure if it'll rain tonight, seems
like it could go either way. Let's hope not. Goodnight.

And I'll leave you with this: "Those immortal dead who live again in
minds made better by their presence." (The quote from the memorial on
top of Greylock)

Total miles: 1604.5